Save The Villa Montezuma

The centerpiece of the Sherman Heights Historic District, the 1887 Jesse Shepard Residence, the “Villa Montezuma.”  It was designed by one of San Diego’s finest Victorian era architectural firms Comstock and Trotsche.  The house is in a class by itself in San Diego architectural history.  It’s a National Landmark.  And is known nationally and internationally as an architectural work of art.

In April 1970 Save Our Heritage Organisation, SOHO, was barely a year old when it dedicated itself to saving this great Victorian.  Joining in support was the Historical Site Board, the A.I.A., and the San Diego Historical Society.

For a time SOHO and the Historical Society worked in tandem until SOHO achieved its Non-Profit status.  Until then cross members such as Kay Porter, Harry Evans and Nick Fintzelberg raised funds for the Villa through the Historical Society.  SOHO founder Robert Miles Parker,  and Nick Fintzelberg testified in Court to stop the planned demolition–and they were successful.  This was a leading happening in the history of Preservation in San Diego.  It lead to the Keeper of the National Register, William Murtagh, coming to town by invitation of SOHO.

It was Murtagh’s first visit to San Diego–and SOHO gave him the grand tour.  A ten-seat van was employed for the occaison.   It was to be driven by Nick Fintzelberg,  but he came came down with appendicitis, so Carol Lindemulder was recruited for driving duty.   On board along with Murtagh were John Henderson, Bob Ferris and Homer Delawie among others.  Miles Parker rode along as narrator and guide.

“Miles could never drive in any way that made sense,” Said Lindemulder.   “He’d be talking and pointing to the right, then say ‘Carol turn left!’ I’d be in the wrong lane–it was wild.  It is amazing Murtagh survived the whole thing!”

“Then we had a luncheon for him downtown at the Home Federal Building.  Mary Ward, Kay Porter, Clare Craine, among others were there too.  At the luncheon Murtagh reviewed for us every necessary detail in submitting the designation of a building for the  inclusion on the National register.  He brought pamphlets and information sheets that showed what kind of information you needed to have.  Mary Ward became a specialist in getting buildings designated.  I can’t even think of how many designations she went on to write in her life.  But those architects learned the same thing too–all because of the Keeper of the National Register coming to town telling us how to do this, which some of us knew nothing about.”

Miles Parker doesn’t recall the wild van ride and the specific details of the day as vividly as Carol.  But he did say the occasion ” worked well for Homer Delawie, Nick, Carol, and Sally Johns.”

Carol continued, “Out of those early happenings–saving the Villa Montezuma, then the Keeper coming, etc., you can say to this day, the importance of the Historical Site Board was strengthened, you can look at the State Historical Building code, the State Historical Commission, and the Mills Act.  San Diego has been represented on those State Boards–primarily by architects.  It was because of those early events–and what the Keeper brought–that got us off the ground and running.  Milford Wayne Donaldson, of course, was later with SOHO.  But he was very much a part of what was going on–and is now State Historic Preservation Officer.

Carol Lindemulder concluded, “When I look at the whole picture of what happened at the beginning, and all the fingers that came after that, is quite fantastic.  None of us could have seen how that would become the history of SOHO.  And how that would effect all historic preservation throughout California–and certainly in the major San Diego area.”

In 2001 SOHO’s Bruce Coons worked as a consultant to Architect Milford Wayne Donaldson on the exterior restoration of the Villa Montezuma.  SOHO board member David Marshall was Project Architect.

“We did a lot of work on ladders with our razor blades scraping away at the layers of paint trying to find the original color scheme.  Bruce and I were sharing ladders, trading razor blades back and forth trying to find those colors until we finally got the match,” Said Marshall.

Bruce Coons remembers “The effort was complicated by the fact that the Villa had gone through paint removal several times in the past, down to bare wood, leaving only the smallest fragments of the original pigment and in many instances, none at all.”

“The available evidence was reviewed, which included paint scrapings, historic photos, books on Victorian color schemes, a previous report by Will Chandler, my own investigations, conversations with people who have worked on the building over the past 30 years, and giving the most weight to the paint analysis by Historic Paint and Architectural Services. A good picture of the original colors began to emerge.”

“I then reviewed the data against common practice of the time, such as: suggested color schemes for Queen Anne Houses, color affinity charts, and another Queen Anne structure built by the same architects also in 1887. The combination of this material presented a strong case for the most accurate color scheme. There may have been additional colors not yet been found, but all major colors have been identified and placed in appropriate locations. Where not attainable colors were placed according to common practice of the time.”

“With this basic 1887 color scheme identified, we now have a true and accurate representation of the house as built when Jesse Shepard resided there.”

In conclusion Bruce said “bringing the colors together for the Villa was a great thrill for me. For the kind of work I do the Villa Montezuma was the ultimate project, and one near to my heart, having wanted to see it in its original state for thirty years.”

David added “When the project was all restored and done, it won some awarads–it was a really great project.  That paint is still on the building and is getting close to needing another paint job.”

Jesse Shepard

Sadly the house has been closed-up for 3 years. It was placed on SOHO’s most endangered list as it sat deteriorating.  Earlier this year San Diego Historical Society relinquish the house to the City due to financial problems.

The current vacant status of the Villa Montezuma has been very detrimental to the National Landmark over the past four years.

The good News is that SOHO is offering its expertise in House Museum operations and historic architectural restoration to the City of San Diego. To stand up for the house it saved 40 years ago.

SOHO’s resume in this regard is one of the best in the nation.

It brought Old Town San Diego’s Whaley House from a falling apart state to being a site visited by people from all over the world. It’s featured on cable programs regularly. Careful period interpretation has guided on-going and continual restoration work–which itself is part of SOHO educational program. SOHO even revived theater productions at the Whaley House, which was also San Diego’s first commercial theater. Before SOHO it had been dark for over a hundred years.

The public had never enjoyed the Whaley House so completely before SOHO took over.

Then when SOHO took over Balboa Park’s Marston House, the resource went from a mildewy shuttered state to standing tall and proud in only 23 days. On May 21, 2010 more people visited the Marston House than in  the entire previous year.

SOHO will be just as successful in making the Villa Montezuma a major cultural tourist destination– which is great News for city tourism, the resource, and for everybody who cherishes this vitally important historical landmark.

Please sign the on line petition to Save the Villa Montezuma

Also view my short film titled Save the Villa Montezuma

Skeleton Hill

Archaeologists have determined the ancient people that lived in the region of what we today call La Jolla Farms are among the oldest in North America. It is an area Kumeyaay Natives regard as sacred. They refer to it as Skeleton Hill.

With so much evidence of ancient human activity here, the view from Skeleton Hill must have been no less captivating for them as it is for us today. The modern day residence on the site was built by William H. Black in 1952. The beach seen here bears his name, Black’s Beach.

This site is among the 200 acres of La Jolla pueblo land Black purchased in 1949. Black hired William Lumpkins to design his residence–a Master Architect renown for his Pueblo Revival designs and his use of adobe as a modern building material.

Adobe structures are now rare in San Diego. The Black residence is unique being a modern-day adobe.

The argument is persuasive that adobe forms the most organic of all architecture.

The gentle rounded edges and soft lines impart a warm character.

William H. Black was a Texas-oil millionaire who came to La Jolla as a financier and land developer.

Horses and Stables were part of his La Jolla Farms vision.

In 1967 UCSD bought the residence and 130 acres of La Jolla Farms property.  It served as the residence for six UCSD Chancellors.  And it was the site of countless public meetings, parties, and networking/seminar functions.

But as University House aged it developed a lot of problems old houses often need help with–plumbing, electrical, and structural issues to name a few.

By the end of 2003 University House was no longer used.  It was closed.  UCSD decided the structure was too problematic to deal with.  They proposed demolition and redevelopment of the site.

Native Americans were immediately out in front opposing redevelopment of the sacred grounds.  The Kumeyaay firmly believe the ancients found here are their fore bearers. For years they suffered in a spiritual sense every time a trench or swimming pool was dug resulting with someone being taken from their resting place. In the past 80 years at least 29 people were unearthed here.  The Kumeyaay seek to recover people removed from the site. And they want those at rest to remain in place.  The Native Americans funded their own legal action and vigorously opposed UCSD’s plans.

Saving the William Black residence became a top priority for Save Our Heritage Organisation, SOHO.  They also began legal action.  SOHO provided expert testimony at hearings and made available legal and consulting assistance.

The third and equally vigorous front in opposition to the project was the La Jolla Historical Society.  Their report achieved designation of the site on the National Register of Historic Places.  And they made it clear they would challenge every permit applied for, and stand in opposition at every hearing.

The opposition coalition went well beyond those three strong voices.  Elected officials spoke in support of the Native Americans, including State Senators Christine Kehoe and Denise Ducheny.  The California Coastal Commission reminded UCSD a full hearing was required through them before any permit would be issued for the project.  Even the typically pro-development Union-Tribune didn’t support UCSD’s tear down and rebuild plan.

Ultimately UCSD listened to the Native Americans and the Historic Preservationists.  Today UCSD is a committed preservationist partner in restoring this great cultural asset.

My thanks to UCSD’s media office, and particularly Jim Daly, Principal Architect and Project Manager.  Their help and assistance gaining access to the property was most generous.

Forty Seven Years Ago

It was forty seven years ago pastoral Mission Valley was changed forever.  The city at large began to change as well.  Excitement over three new malls–College Grove, Grossmont Center, and Mission Valley–resulted in a decline for downtown department stores and merchants.  El Cajon Boulevard also lost its prestige as a shopping and business corridor as people flocked to the three new shopping centers.

The May Company became the premiere department store in San Diego when it opened with the Mission Valley Shopping Center in 1961.  It was designed by William S. Lewis.

Its most attractive feature was the restaurant. One could luncheon and enjoy a panoramic view.  I remember it being a pretty reliable place to get a burger, sandwich or salad.

But department store restaurants fell out of favor.  This unique space is used for nothing more than storage today.
The serrated roof line of the main building complements the restaurant roof line perfectly.  I remember the main building being a yellowish gold color.  It seems those colors have also fallen out of favor nowadays.

The May Company on Wilshire and Fairfax in Los Angeles prominently displays gold.

Frank Lloyd Wright originally envisioned the Marin County Civic Center with a Gold color roof.   Blue won out, however the roof trim ornament is goldish, as are the portal rails.

The lack luster beige probably came about when May Co and Robinsions merged.  Now it is Macy’s.

One wonders if this element will survive future expansion plans for the mall.  Adding a second deck is proposed.  I won’t be surprised if all existing mid century design aspects are erased and replaced with the “anywhere in America” look.  I’m not sure many people remember this as a restaurant.  It is most likely just viewed as an inadequate storage space.  Would be nice though if the new plans solved their expansion needs and preserved the old cafe and brought it back.

Classical Gas; Running on Empty

Note: The following story is also illustrated with video clips via the highlighted and underlined links within the text.

Once a familiar site on the American Landscape many of these old Texaco stations stubbornly live on as rusted venues for various enterprises.

The “banjo sign” was its most recognizable feature.

Their slogan was “You can trust your car with the man who wears the star.”

They were called “Service Stations.” One never had to dirty one’s hands on the unwieldy hose and nozzle. Attendants popped open the hood and checked the oil, battery, brake fluid, radiator, and fan belts. Windshields cleaned and tire pressure checked. Typically motorists wandered over to a soda machine and relaxed while their car was checked over, filled and “topped off.”

You could always count on a road map being available. If there was a charge for one, it was nominal. I seem to recall they were free all through the 1960’s.

Children could enjoy playing with their own Texaco station. The Texaco station design appearantly emerged from the early 1930’s. They were white with green trim, red stars, and banjo sign.

Oceanside, CA. The bands of trim are always a clue even though the stations now look different.

It would have been 3 bands of green trim.

This old station on U.S. 101 in Leucadia was remodeled, but I suspected it once was a Texaco.

I ran the question past Scott. He confirmed it was indeed a Texaco Station from the early 1930’s.

Another old Texaco in North Park, San Diego.

On the same block is this old station. But no clue. I have the feeling it was formerly a Richfield Station.

There were many stations to choose from. Many brands. The competition was strong. There was the term “Gas War.” It didn’t mean war in the Middle East, as one might suppose today. It meant one dealer would out do the other dealer for the lowest possible price.

An oldie in Encinitas, CA. It appears the structure featured an apartment above the gas station. In addition to Gas Wars there were various incentives such as trading stamps.

There were three competing trading stamps I recall. Orange Stamps, S&H Green stamps, and Blue Chip Stamps. The concept is modified today in the form of “cash rewards,” or “Airline Miles” offered by credit cards. I remember Shell had a game called Presidential Portraits. If you collected the portraits of all U.S. Presidents, you won a prize. It wasn’t easy though. You amassed a large trove of Millard Filmores but could never get a Zachary Taylor. China collections and silverware were often incentives.

Signal is a gas you never see anymore. A lot of petroleum was produced in the Los Angeles region, especially Signal Hill.

Gilmore Gasoline came from the grounds of the Fairfax District in Los Angeles.

Gilmore was gobbled by Mobil. The distinctive pegasus was eventually phased out by Mobil. This station is in Flagstaff, AZ.

Douglas Gas, very popular in the 1950’s and 1960’s, had refining operations out of Long Beach. They were gobbled up by Continental Oil. Continental became Conoco which merged with Phillips. ConocoPhillips today is one of the “Big Six Super Majors.” Another old brand bought up by ConocoPhillips is Union 76, or Unical. Union 76 stations were known to have a higher price. However in the day when stations actually provided service, theirs was always considered top notch. They had a jingle:

“You always get the finest
The very best, the finest
At the sign of the 76
Whether you stop in for water or air
To powder your nose or comb your hair.
You always get the finest
The very best, the finest
At the sign of the 76.
It’s orange and blue,
So look for that Union
Sign of the finest —
The sign of the 76.”

You may notice PhillipsConoco has discarded 76 Orange for red. The 76 ball is apparently being phased out as well as some of their landmark stations.

The most interesting gas station I photographed was Russel’s Gas Station on Sawtelle Blvd. in West Los Angeles. It appeared unchanged, except for weathered paint, since the 1920’s.

I’ve misplaced most of my shots of it. These pictures are from 1983. I remember Huell Howser discovered Russel’s when he was with KCET, Public Broadcasting in Los Angeles. “Now wait a minute! You mean to tell me you’ve been here since WHEN? GAW-LEE!” Needless to say the site is extinct now.

I was able to locate one of my shots of Russel’s Gas Station in the form of a CD cover for the band Building 14 and their album “Fuel For The Messiah.” The label on the pumps is Seaside Gas, a later day “Independent.” But the pumps appear to have been painted over many times. I seem to recall it being a Richfield station before.

Gulf was a frequently seen sign.

Gulf was gobbled up by Chevron. Many old Gulf stations became the independent “GO-LO,” whatever that means.

Advertising at times seemed to be saying one thing but meaning another.

Kum and Go is based in Iowa. It is a very popular mid west gasoline brand.

Another unusual name.

As the companies merged, competition dried up. Prices skyrocketed and “service” was completely eliminated from stations. The prices here are almost the “good old days.” We hear a lot of explanations of why the prices have gone up. Besides the usual ones–OPEC pulls the strings, too much demand–I have to laugh at some of the others. “The price has gone up because of worries about hurricanes this season,” “A refinery had to close for a month because of maintenance.” Why not “upset caused by Britney Spears’ bad smelling feet on a trans atlantic flight?”

In the NEWS on February 1st it was reported Exxon posted the highest quartly profit of any company in the history of the universe. But not by charging the prices shown at this BARFF Station.